- 4 Min Read
- 0 Comment
Shekhawati in Rajasthan, founded in the 15th century by Rao Shekha, is one of the most unique cultural regions of India and is widely known as the “world’s largest open art gallery.” I have been
visiting Rajasthan for the last 30 years, and I have clearly seen the change in connectivity over time. Earlier, this region felt remote, but today it is easily accessible—located around 160 km from Delhi, 140 km from Jaipur, and about 180 km from Bikaner. Despite this, Shekhawati today appears almost abandoned, which raises an important question: how did such a wealthy region lose its prominence?
During the 17th to 19th centuries, Shekhawati was one of the richest and most prosperous regions in India. Its wealth came from its strategic position along major trade routes connecting the ports of Gujarat with Central Asia through Afghanistan. Many of India’s leading business families originated
from this region, including Ghanshyam Das Birla, Ramakrishna Goenka, Ajay Piramal, and Anandilal Poddar. These wealthy merchants, known as Seths, built grand havelis—large mansions that
resembled palaces—in towns such as Mandawa, Nawalgarh, Fatehpur, Alsisar, Ramgarh, Jhunjhunu, and Churu.
A haveli is a traditional mansion designed around courtyards and reflects a perfect blend of
architecture, art, and lifestyle. Typically, it is divided into two main sections: the front courtyard, known as the mardana, was used by men for business meetings and receiving guests, while the inner courtyard, or zenana, served as the private living and sleeping area for the family. At the back, there was a smaller section for servants. These havelis featured large, beautifully carved wooden gates
reinforced with iron, along with decorated balconies and richly painted interiors, making them true palaces where art and history come together.
Shekhawati is especially famous for its fresco paintings, which cover the walls of these havelis. These frescoes were created on wet lime plaster, allowing the natural colors to penetrate deeply and
survive for more than a hundred years. Many of these paintings are still original today. The themes include religious and mythological scenes, royal life, social customs, and even family portraits.
Interestingly, there is a strong British influence visible in some frescoes, with depictions of trains,
bicycles, and European-style clothing. In places like Mandawa and Nawalgarh, artisans even painted images of the British royal family. The colors were derived from natural sources such as minerals, plants, and semi-precious stones, and gold leaf was sometimes used to highlight details.
The Seths not only built magnificent homes but also contributed to society by constructing wells and schools, supporting the local population. Many villagers depended directly on these merchant
families. Their trading activities were diverse and included textiles and fabrics, spices and dry fruits, opium, salt and camel-based desert trade, as well as metals and handicrafts like brass, copper
utensils, and jewelry.
However, with the development of modern transportation systems such as railways and the shift of trade routes, these merchants gradually moved to major coastal cities like Kolkata, Mumbai, and Chennai to expand their businesses. As a result, Shekhawati lost its economic importance, and many havelis were left abandoned, often maintained only by caretakers. Over time, this led to the region’s present condition, where grandeur still exists but is slowly fading.
In recent years, Shekhawati has started to regain attention, largely due to tourism and the influence of the film industry. Many Hindi films were shot in this region, bringing its artistic heritage into the spotlight. This attracted foreign tourists, and gradually, several havelis were restored and converted into heritage hotels. The royal family of Mandawa played an important role by transforming their palace into a hotel. I still remember my first visit in 1988, when it was difficult to find even a single air-conditioned room, whereas today Mandawa offers a wide range of accommodation—from budget hotels starting around ₹1000 to luxury heritage properties costing ₹15000 or more.
Today, Shekhawati has also become a popular destination for weddings and cultural tourism. With
improved connectivity and growing interest from both Indian and international travelers, the region is once again finding its place on the Rajasthan tourism map. It stands as a living museum, where every haveli tells a story of wealth, migration, art, and transformation.
Lalit Mishra
Tour Guides in India
